This article offers a guide to some of the truly unique features of Berlin. I’ve decided not to dwell on the city’s picture-postcard attractions as I’m sure you’re more than capable of conducting yourself around them without my help! Instead I’ve tried to guide you to areas further off the beaten track which will allow you to soak up the counter-culture and diversity which make Berlin truly unique.
Berlin is a sprawling and hugely diverse city and it’s all to easy (as I did on my first visit) to become overwhelmed by this and miss the true delights of Berlin you traveled there to see. That’s why, moreso that any other city in Europe, it’s important to know what you want to get out of Berlin before you travel there and plan accordingly.
Pre-Planning – Where to stay
There are two key areas to consider when deciding where to stay. Prenzlauer Burg is full of the counter-culture and artistry which attracts many to Berlin but is still quiet enough to allow you to have a reasonably relaxing stay. Friedrichshain will allow no such thing and if you choose to stay in Berlin then don’t expect to be retiring to bed before the sun comes up. If you’re a nightlife fan but want to have the option or retiring before the rooster starts crowing then consider staying in Weißensee which is close enough to the centre to allow you to experience all the action of a night out but quiet enough to let you get some shut-eye when it all gets too much.
Day 1 – Friday
Welcome to Berlin! As tempting as it may be to curl up in your apartment and get some shut eye try and avoid this as your 48 hours in the city will run out surprisingly quickly! If you want to go shopping in Berlin then now is the time to do it as many shops will close on Saturday lunchtime and won’t open again until after you’re gone.Kreuzberg has the best selection of independent shops. Fashionistas will want to head to one of the area’s many vintage boutiques. Hands Up has a great selection but is beset (as are many independent shops in Berlin) by somewhat erratic opening hours which makes it hard to know when to visit. If you’re into records or second hand CD’s you’ve also come to the right place and a visit to Heisse Scheiben will be richly rewarded. Shopping completed head back to your apartment with your new purchases and get ready to hit the town.
If you’ve fallen for Kreuzberg then head back there for a visit to the legendary Ankerklause a popular local hangout. Not quite as unknown as it once was it’s still popular enough with the hipsters and fashionistas of the city to make it a fairly safe bet.
Ready to hit the clubs? There’s a mind boggling selection and it’s hard to recommend one over the other as it really depends on your musical tastes and how hard and long a night you’re looking for. Dunkel in Pranzlauer Berg is a good choice if you’re looking for a simple night free of pretention and pressure to be cool. Its mix of 80s hits, new wave and indie may not be the cutting edge of cool but it does generally make for a laid back atmosphere and enjoyable evening.
If you’re looking for something a bit wilder try Berghain. Home to one of Berlin’s stricter entry policies (the door staff may refuse you for no particular reason and there’s nothing you can do about it) once inside the staff are remarkably friendly and laid back. Clubbers of a sensitive nature may wish to head to the door before it gets too late as there is something of an ‘anything goes’ attitude among the club’s gay crowd. I’ll say no more…
Finally Frannz Club also in Pranzlauer Berg is the Mecca of Berlin’s club scene. Offering a variety of music styles across several different floors the club will appeal to most tastes and is a fairly safe bet if you’re not really sure what you’re looking for. It is expensive though so don’t go here looking for the cheap night in Berlin of legends…
Day 2 – Saturday
If you’re head is throbbing a bit then last night then a good breakfast and (most importantly) a strong coffee are what you need to start the day! Back in Kreuzberg the Café Matilda has an expansive range of options for breakfast so you’re sure to find something even if your stomach isn’t up to much.
Still in need of some retail therapy? then head over to Ka-Da-We. Once a landmark to West-German consumerism the shop is now (like Harrods in London) more a tourist attraction than a local department store. Nevertheless it’s still worth a visit particularly if you’re looking to pick up some kitschy Berlin souvenirs of which it has a seemingly limitless supply.
Looking to do something a little different this afternoon? Then head on over to the Spielwiesewhich has one of the largest collections of board games I’ve ever seen (some are even of East German vintage). Be wary of starting a game of Monopoly with the locals though games can go on for days and may not only ruin your plans for the evening but cause you to miss your flight home as you battle for control of Schlossallee!
Not got the energy for another night on the town? Then head to Kreuzberg once more and head for one of the areas quieter bars of which there are a surprisingly high amount. San Remo Upflamör is a particularly good choice but you should be able to sniff out a good one without too much help!
Day 3 – Sunday
Up bright and early? Good! Now’s the time to tick off the tourist attractions and get your photo taken by the Brandenberg Gate. If you’re flight home is from Tegel Airport then head to the area around the Zoo where there are a selection of lovely cafés where you can have a leisurely lunch and people-watch before getting the bus back to Tegel which takes less than 20 minutes if the traffic isn’t bad (and on a Sunday it won’t be). If you’re flying back from Schönefeld then head to the city’s hugely impressive glass and steel Hauptbahnhof which as Europe’s largest station is almost a tourist attraction in itself. A train back from here to the airport will take around 30 minutes but they can be irregular so be sure to check the times before making your journey.
Conclusion
You’ll be tired and worn out but hopefully you’ll have had a fantastic and unique experience in Berlin and be desperate to return! The city does get a grip on you after a while and its laid back international atmosphere is something which has visitors flocking back again and again.
